I ordered over $800 worth of paint and accessories on Friday, and they were sitting on my front deck when I got home on Tuesday. Free shipping and I didn't have to haul it. The next day I noticed that the paint was on sale so I called, and within minutes, she had processed a credit on my credit card. Doheny's is a winner.

As for the painting, my pool has fiberglass panels on the sides, and poured concrete deep end and bottom. It was painted 8 years ago with Poxolon. For a paint that promised to last 5-7 years, I was certainly satisfied. But I decided to try Zeron this time. The weather did not cooperate, but I found a window with 36 hours rain free and went for it. All of the prep work was done days before. I hired 2 college kids to do the heavy lifting. We couldn't really put the Zeron on as thick as it should be on the fiberglass panels, but did on the concrete. We started around 8:30 in the morning, and finished around 12:30. The first night the temp went below the 50 degree minimum, but not to worry, by the end of the week it was over 90. lol. I left it for 6 days, not knowing which temp to use. It worked fine. The pool looks great, and I'm hoping to get 9 or 10 years out of it.

Tips....plan to throw out EVERYTHING you use on the paint. I used 2 5 gallon buckets (mixed in 3 batches), 2 rollers, 4 roller covers (switched them out 1/2 way through as they were getting gooey), a brush for edging, the drill attachment, the tray in the bucket, a small roller for the steps....they all went in the trash. You can't wash this paint off. We got most off our hands with a scrub. I bought rubber rain boots just for the occasion, and kicked them off in the grass and went barefoot into the house. I'm still finding little spots of blue in the strangest places. On wood (my kitchen cabinets, table...) I found that spraying pledge on it thick, leave it a few minutes, then rub with a microfiber cloth took it off without wrecking the finish for at least a week after the painting.
For the bottom of the pool, we found that pouring paint down and then spreading it with the rollers (using extension poles) worked best. The bottom went very quickly.
I didn't have bubbling, but that could be because it was cool for the first 2 days after painting.
In the end, my 34 year old pool looks pretty darn good. This is a good product. Don't underestimate the time it will take to prep, don't expect the weather to be perfect, and hire some strong backs to help.

We have a plaster pool that was in pretty bad shape. It had a lot of very rough spots that algea was sticking to and was difficult to keep clean. We looked into a lot of different options and decided to go for the Olympic Zeron paint over Gunzite primer. I researched several different products and talked with Kelly Tech. several times and felt comfortable with their product.

We spent a lot of time on the prep and made sure that everything was prepped perfectly. We applied the gunzite primer on Saturday morning and the Zeron on Sunday morning. The Gunzite went on well and covered well. They say it is heavy bodied and will fill the bigger imperfections and it does to a certain degree, but if you have any imperfections rougher than sandpaper (or deeper) you will want to fill them.

The Zeron goes on smooth, but we were not warned that if it is too warm outside you will get bubbles on the surface due to the Epoxy curing too quickly. We began painting with the Zeron at about 8:15 am with an outside temp of 72 degrees and wrapped up around 11:30 with an outside temp of about 84 degrees. About half way through we noticed that previously painted areas were beginning to get small bubbles on the surface. There wasn't much we could do and Kelly Tech. was not open to call so we just kept going. After completing the painting the bubbles kept forming. Not all spots have bubbles, but the bottom in particular has a lot of bubbles. The bubbles pop easily, but leave behind tiny craters all over the pool. I think this is going to be a problem with catching dirt and giving algea a place to grow. I called Kelly Tech. this morning and discussed the problem with them and was told that it was too warm and that caused the epoxy to cure too quickly and I should have painted at night. I read all the bulletins and talked with Kelly Tech three times by phone and I was never told that I should apply at night! It would have saved me a lot of time and money had I been told or read anywhere that the paint may have bubles form on the surface if it gets too warm or if it at any time in the curing process is exposed to direct sunlight. 75-85 degrees to me is not too warm. I could have easily altered my painting schedule to work around the air temperature.

I bought extra paint so I will be repainting the bottom of the pool TONIGHT after sanding dowm the tiny craters in the epoxy on the bottom of the pool. It took 6 gallons to paint my pool the frist time and I have 4 left over so I will have more than enough to paint the bottom tonight. I will say that I am more than a little upset that I have to repaint the pool. I will most likely only be repainting the bottom because I do not have enough paint to repaint the entire pool and the bottom is where I see the biggest problem with catching dirt.

Be sure to read all of the bulletins! There is a lot of information in them. Some of the info is a little conflicting so if you have any questions be sure to call and ask. They may not want to chat about it much, but you are buying their product so they should answer all of the questions you have. Don't be afraid to call back repeatedly if necessary! Good luck.

I did a lot of research on pool paint before purchasing this stuff. Everyone will tell you that painting isn't the best option for pool resurfacing. While I'm sure they're right, it really was the only option for my pool and budget. As everyone else has said, you must follow the directions to the letter. Use the technical bulletins from Kelly Technical's website to read up on prepping, etc. I really thought the paint would be a bit thicker, like the gunzite primer. I tried to put it on as heavy as they recommended, but you have to be careful. On the walls, this led to a few runs, and on the bottom, after the paint had set up, I noticed a few pinholes in the finish, that apparently were bubbles that appeared and popped after the paint was rolled on. A little sand on the steps and slope was a good idea as this stuff is slick when dry. I hope it holds up for several years.

i was skeptical to epoxy my OLD plaster. Plaster contractor says never to do that... but he Wanted 10K to replaster. So after researching the process, i settled for Zeron white. i thought since my plaster is white... most of it, then if the paint flakes off or bubbles off then it will be white underneath. This was very nice paint. My pool cleaned and dried very well. I had good weather for three days. The Poxoprime II worked as advertised. It dried and cured evenly. Then we put on the Zeron. We have a Brand new pool! whoa... i mean Whoa. Happy to do it again in 7 years.

I don't have much to add to the other reviews except this is the finest paint you can buy for your pool. It does wear down (this is our 4th season with it), but when it says it chalks, it doesn't mean a huge mess - it's very little. The paint goes on like silk - very easy to work with. BUT, if you get it on your hands and body, it takes effort to get it off. One way to get it off that I discovered by accident is to (particularly your hands and nails) coat your hands with Vaseline by rubbing them together - be generous with the stuff. Let it sit for about 10 minutes, use a nail brush, soap and water, and the stuff will come off. It will NOT come off clothes so wear junk stuff.

Back to the paint, I can't imagine a better paint for a pool. Have never used rubber paint but can completely recommend Zeron. It is TOUGH!

You need to keep in mind that this is epoxy paint. That means that a catalyst needs to be mixed into it and that you will have limited time to work with the paint once it is mixed. It also means that this is some of the most tenacious paint you can buy. This is not your typical Latex Semi-gloss that you might use it the kitchen. If it dries (cures), then its basically yours for life. Here's what I know: Prep: This is more than a one day project. Drain the pool and use a power washer to clean the heck out of it. Then use TSP as directed to further clean, kill, and etch the exiting finish. power wash again. Watch the weather for consecutive sunny days and allow the prepped pool to dry. Allow an extra day so that nooks, crannies, cracks, and pinholes get good and dry. Tape off anything you don't want to be permanently painted. Painting weather: You're looking for a dry, windless 60-70 degree day. The warmer it is, the less work time you have with the paint. If the surface is too hot, the paint will bubble, too cold and the paint will not cure. The pool will need a week to cure, ideally without any rain. You really don't want rain within 24 hours of the paintjob. Enlist Help: My team consisted of me, my brother, and my wife. They sat on the deck enjoying a beer while I labored in the pit of despair. If you know someone that is savy with the roller and WILLING to assist, then sign them up. This paint is very heavy and the first hour of painting is much more enjoyable than the sixth. The Paint: Only mix as much paint as you think you can use in the pot life of the paint. I did two gallons at a time. Don't try to mix it in the one gallon pail the paint comes in. Fork over the cash for a five gallon bucket. Each batch gave me a 90 minute window to work with (it was about 65 degrees out). Had I mixed more I would have been screwed. This stuff goes on easy but slow. A little advice for mixing. Mix the stuff in the pool. It is after all what you intend to get the paint on. Anything else should have drop cloths, masking tape, etc. in place BEFORE the first can of paint is ever cracked open. Wear rubber gloves! You will get both the paint and the catalyst on you immediately and often so don't plan on taking breaks to stroll around the back forty or run in the house for a drink. You will soooo regret it. Incidentally, once this stuff gets on the bottom of your shoes it is at the same time slippery and sticky as all get-out. If you jump out of the pool and walk on the grass (smart right?), you will certainly track grass and other debris into the pool where it will be glued to any surface you walk on. Expect that all brushes, rollers, pans, buckets, and clothing that come in contact with this paint will be destined for the garbage. Again there are no breaks, once you start painting you have to finish. Clean up: You used drop cloths, gloves etc., so cleanup should be a snap. You will want to have a change of shoes waiting poolside (see glue shoes above). The pool surface sets up fairly quickly however anything else it touches stays wet for a long time. Paint that did not have any catalyst mixed into it never really dries. It just gets gooey. I would not recommend throwing drop cloths or work clothes into your washer/dryer soon after the paint job. Anything unfortunate enough to get paint on it (I have a tendency to rub my nose) may be removed BEFORE IT IS CURED using MEK. You can buy MEK in the solvent isle at your home center for $25 a gallon. Yes, you should have some on hand. Mr. Murphy loves this paint. Bottom Line: Take the time to prepare the pool surface and your work area, be cautious and you will be just fine. The end product looks fantastic. Don't spread it too thin and you will have true one coat finish that dries to a mirror shine. The pool looks like new and hopefully I will not need to touch it for eight years! Good luck with your project.

This product s pretty amazing. My pool was beyond hope, with all the surface plaster completely gone and having chips and pits 1/4" to 1/2" deep, lose crumbling plaster in areas, it really was a sandblast job that was needed. I used the Gunzite primer then coated with Zeron. Although the chips and pits were still there (just way to many to fill in, but if you only have a few, they should be patched with the proper type plaster), however it did smooth them out a bit and the entire pool came out looking pretty good. Sure there were a few runs and rough spots, but this was not any fault of the paint, it was due to the extremely poor condition of the pool. When filled with water, I was still very pleased with the results! Here are a few tips I can suggest: 1. Buy more primer/paint that you calculated. They will take back unopened cans if returned in less that 30-days and you will not have to stop in the middle of your project to wait for more paint. I ended up short 4-gals of Primer (the plaster really absorbs this stuff) and 2-gal paint. 2. Buy the thinner made for this paint. This stuff is extremely messy and sticky making it hard to get off your hands, tools, shoes, etc. 3. Pressure wash, pressure wash and pressure wash again! If you have bad plaster you cannot pressure wash enough to break up loose bits, especially after the acid wash when surface plaster is eaten very thin and flakes off. Throughout the course of the job, I must have pressure washed 20-times. Don't even think about just using a garden hose to rinse unless your plaster is already in perfect condition, and even then I would recommend you buy or rent a pressure washer, as it's worth every penny! 4. Once dried, the paint is extremely slippery and that's a big problem on steps and in the shallow end of the pool. You need to do something to counter act it. I tried adding silica sand to the paint and mixing it in. First I put too much and the paint would not dry (remained soft). Then I put less and it was better, but I am not happy with the way the shallow steps came out, still too slick. Experiment with how much sand works best for you. I read 1lb per gallon was the right ratio, but that did not seem to have enough traction. 5. Follow the instruction on the can for mixing and outside temp when working. Applied it on a hot day (95 deg) and the paint actually had bubbles forming on the paint in some areas. The smoother the pool plaster is to start, the better the job will look when completed, but in a case like mine where the plaster was beyond hope, I thought it came out pretty well considering and will enjoy the pool for many summers to come! P.S. Used the Icy Blue color for the bottom and painted over the bad tiles with Bikini Bottom Blue. If you don't like the look of a vinyl liner style pool (the blue sort of gives it that look, but we love it), better stick to using white.

The pool had a few small cracks and stains. Used the Zeron Bikini Blue. It rolled on and covered the cracks. Pool looks great!